Ananthapuri – the another name of capital city Thiruvananthapuram is one among the best 10 greenest cities in India and the best city to live in according to the most recent Times of India survey. Why not? Among the three cities of Kerala, it’s the only city splendid with greenery, ancient monuments including parks and palaces, lakes, seas, beaches, famous temples and a lot of spectacular scenes to watch. As it’s the capital city, it’s the central nerve of all political affairs and all ministers and MLAs of Kerala reside here. This city derived its name from ‘Ananthapadmanabhan’ meaning Vishnu is reclining on Ananthan in Palazhy (milk of sea). It’s believed that Vishnu in Anandasayanam residing in the heart of the city protects the whole city and its people from every disaster and natural calamities. Most recently this city has gained wide popularity world wide when monumental assets of Sri Padmanabhaswamy temple were partially revealed estimating it around 2 lakh crore Indian rupees, excluding its monumental value. A few words can’t conclude the significance of Ananthapuri. So, through this article, I am briefly explaining Onam celebrations of capital city. As you know, Onam is a harvest festival celebrated by every Keralite, irrespective of caste and creed and it’s known as the state festival of Kerala. Since most prominent political leaders reside in this green city, Onam celebrations are given much importance that even promotes Kerala tourism. Also, preparations are done days ahead, with commence of Malayalam new year Chingam. No doubt, all over Kerala, most expensive celebrations are done in the capital city that is also known as Trivandrum.

Main spots of attraction in a brief note

Centre of attraction of Onam celebrations is Kanakakunnu palace and museum which spreads in acres of land in the heart of the city. To keep away from polluted city, people love to spend a little time in mornings and evenings in this palace gardens and nearby museum and zoo. So, this palace is made most attractive during Onam season. ‘Kunnu’ means small hill and this palace slightly elevated from the surrounding places bring a lot of fresh air and less vehicle voices. Earlier it was a recreation palace and rest house for the king. Now, it’s under the control of Tourism department of Kerala. City Corporation and Water authority, just opposite of the palace and zoo is also decorated well. Many live concerts and dance programs of artists and celebrities related to film field are also conducted in different parts of the city. Traditional art forms are also well promoted this time. Last time, such stage shows were arranged in 18 places in the heart of the city including many auditoriums and theatres. Yet, main hubs of celebrations are Chandrasekharan Nair Stadium, Kanakakunnu palace open stages and Tagore theatre. You can have a wonderful boating and sight of a lovely sunset in Veli lake also – the extreme, calm end of the city. Nicely decorated other parts of the city are Kerala Legislative Assembly, Secretariat, East fort and associated Gandhi Park, Kowdiar Palace and Kerala University. i.e. Entire public places and roads from the heart of the city – East fort to Kowdiar Palace will be decorated with jewels of light like a bride, if we are traveling in MG road through Pulimoodu, Secretariate, PMG, Vikas Bhavan, Museum and finally all roads leading to Kowdiar Palace, the place where royal family resides now.

Onam celebrations inaugurated by Chief Minister

Every year, Onam celebrations at the state capital is inaugurated by honorable Chief Minister. Normally, it’s conducted at Chandrasekharan Nair stadium with a huge crowd to applaud.  It lasts for 1 week completing with a massive colorful pageantry from Kowdiar Palace to East fort. It’s known as Onam Tourism Vaaraakhosham. Vaaram means week and Akhosham means celebrations. But celebrations of Keralites begin with Attam and lasts for 12 days. i.e. from Attam star to Chathayam, ending with Narayana Guru Jayanthi (Fourth Onam). Major venues of celebrations are Chandrasekharan Nair Stadium, Kanakakunnu Palace, Sreevarahom, Akkulam, Poojappura Maidanam, Theerthapada Mandapam, Sooryakanthi Auditorium, Vyloppilly Samskrithi Bhavan, Shanghumugham beaches, Neyyar Dam and gardens, Aruvikkara and VJT Hall. Events give more preference to cultural and traditional art and dance items of Kerala. Yet, to attract folk, they arrange live Gaanamelas of playback singers and cinematic dances of film stars. In Sooryakanthi Auditorium, only traditional art forms are presented. Yet, celebrity dancers like Sobhana and Mallika Sarabhai do perform their art items every year for which they get wide appreciations too. Trade fairs, food festivals and amusement parks are also arranged during this festival season. Yet, centre of attraction is the light show. Almost all buildings of the major roads will be well-lighted with multi-coloured stringl lights with commence of Onam Vaaraakhosham. The whole city at night appears day till the official closing ceremony of the function by the Chief Minister.

The city I saw in Uthradapaachil night

Uthradam is just one day before Thiruvonam and hence the most crowded day of the events. People will be busy in purchasing for the next day Onasadya - the vegetarian feast and gifts for their dear ones. Textiles and jewellery shops will be crowded most as it’s a wedding season too! Yet, the day before Onam is exclusively spared for Onam purchases. Flower markets are also crowded since they bring flowers for floral decoration Attam. When whole Keralites are searching the best to welcome Maveli- our beloved king, business people are well using the situation by giving people the best they want in the name of discount sales. You can see a Maveli well dressed in big junctions of the city, giving kids and adults Onam wishes.

Let me begin my journey from East fort, the heart of the city where Lord Padmanabha resides. Real decorations start from Gandhi Park and Vetti muricha kotta, popularly known as East fort. Private bus stand and Puthirikandam Maidan is just opposite of East fort and temple. Every year, art fairs and exhibitions are arranged in the maidan. As we travel towards PMG Junction through MG Road, we can see buildings of both sides decorated with multicolored serial lights. Flood lights of different colours make them more attractive. Roads become more rush when it reaches PMG Junction. Till then, we can enjoy the city lights without much traffic.

Secretariat and Kerala Legislative Assembly flooded in city lights

If you want to see beautiful Kerala, you should visit during Onam days when flowers blossom everywhere in spring with small showers, city sink in a dreamland of different colours and all people around in a jolly mood. Of all decorated buildings, I like Secretariat most. This white beauty turns colour when she is showered with different colours. When its garden trees are filled with string lights, it appears as if those are bearing fruits. Among all the buildings around, it holds its head high showing its royal beauty.

Then we pass VJT Hall, Kerala University and Chandrasekhar Stadium. Next attraction is Kerala Legislative Assembly. Its garden, as always is flooded with a lot of colours and the building itself make us stop there for a moment to watch. From here onwards, from Vikas Bhavan and Hanuman temple traffic block begins. Just a few steps away is the central attraction – Kanakakunnu Palace and amusement fair.

Kanakakunnu – the centre of attraction

Normally, traffic is diverted off from LMS, PMG to Vellayambalam to make way for the people to walk and enjoy the beauty around. Sometimes, it may take more than an hour to get a parking area for your vehicle. It’s only possible to walk through the crowd. Big screens will be placed in every big junction showing the live programs of different stadiums. In the opening door, elephants and panchavadyam are presented showing the cultural heritage of our state. When you enter the palace garden at night, it seems you are entering a dream world. Lights and cheers of people everywhere.

Mini-amusement park for kids

No doubt, the right hand side of the palace will be most crowded as it brings a lot of entertainment for people, particularly kids. Giant wheels, trains, well of death, magic etc are a few among those items just to bring a joyful mood. We can see everyone fully engaged in different plays, shouting and cheering.

Swings – Something different from last years

I think it’s for the first time swings are introduced to Onam cultural celebrations. Now, when Onam memories of kids flying in swings of the courtyard have faded, these swings are fetching something precious from our past – our own childhood. Instead of filling every branch with serial lights, hundreds of swings were tied, which was the main attraction of this year’s Onam celebrations at Kanaka Kunnu. Not only kids, senior citizens also enjoyed their Onam vacations in its true means and it was really a ‘camera shot’ sight to watch people swinging in dim lights at night. All lower branches were tied with short length swings while lengthy swings for higher branches. People really enjoyed this newly added content – hundreds of swings in each and every branch of trees in acres of land around the palace.

Food festival and live shows

Another attraction of the palace is food fest. Though different items of foods were displayed, high demand is always for Kerala traditional items like tapioca, prawns, steam cake, chicken-coconut curry, idiyappam, appam, pearl spot fish etc. Stalls of all leading hotels of the city were present as always. In an open stage, several art forms were conducted giving preference to Kathakali, Mohiniattam, Kaikotti kali, Thiruvathira kali etc. Yet, mimics and ganamelas are also arranged. Flower shows are also conducted during day time.

Floral decorations to welcome Maveli

Onam is never complete without Attam. It’s a decoration made in the courtyard using seasonal flowers. Children use to gather flowers and make attam giving wings to their imagination. It begins with Attam star and ends on the tenth day with Thiruvonam. Though those attam days have faded, still people show interest to make this decoration at least on Thiruvonam day. As Kovalam belt is the major tourist centre of Thiruvananthapuram, much preference is given by local people here to make perfect attams spending a lot of time and money. It may take one and half full days to complete attam on Thiruvonam. So, they give less importance to first 8 days and will be fully concentrated on the last day of the celebrations. Thiruvonam is second Onam and festival ends only with fourth Onam. People from different parts, even Tamil Nadu are coming to Kovalam-Vizhinjam-Chappath area to see such spectacular decorations. Different shapes are curved out of clay, dried and then florally decorated taking about 30-35 hours with more than 20-30 people involved. Many such attams can be seen in the bipass road leading towards Kovalam.

Tourism Vaaraakhosham ends with colourful procession

Last, but not the least is the closing ceremony. This day is significant for a massive cultural procession from Kowdiar palace, Vellayambalam to East Fort, Pazhavangadi. Plots of different departments, schools, temples, clubs, associations etc will be displayed which bring a large mass. It may take hours to see the full procession, which exhibits all cultural, traditional and modern features of our state.

Around 100 floats participate every year and winners will be given prizes. It’s a must watch for any person, who really want to know about God’s own country. Each float will be associated with Panchavadyam, Mohini attam, Kathakali etc and chairs are put on the either sides of the road for VIPs to watch this procession. Of course, the city will be given local holiday to watch this procession. Beautifully decorated elephants, traditional art forms and lovely plots of boat race are the major attractions of this procession.

Let me conclude

It’s true Onam has lost its significance if we compare its status with ancient ages. Now, it's not an era of poverty where a proverb was told, "Kaanam vittum Onam unnanam", meaning you should celebrate Onam even after selling less-price Kanam. More importance was given to the fact that all Malayalis fill their stomaches at least on this day. Now those poverty days have gone, that we need to wait for 365 days to get full-filled stomaches. Yet, we can’t ignore the fact, even a single Malayali can’t keep himself away from celebrations. Even in the age of instant sadyas and pookkalams, people are enjoying their Onam holidays, either as a ticket to home town or a trip to foreign countries. At least for Onam, people remember their home, dear ones and their lost childhood days a lot. It’s not possible to bring those days back – yet possible to give something to the next generation, in the form of a Onam sadya, Onakodi or a get together at home. These Onam days really give such an opportunity for we people to do so.