India is a country of vast cultures and traditions which have been passed to us through our ancestors and we are passing them to the next generation as well. What are the rituals performed for a new born baby? Giving him first gold ornament, giving him first colour dress, teaching him first written words, giving him first rice grain or his first birthday - everything is associated with family members, relatives and of course celebrations and rituals. In this article I am giving you a brief description of Chorunnu- a Hindu ceremony performed in Kerala for a six month child. It's known as Annaprashan in Bengal. 'Chor' means rice in Malayalam and 'unu' means meals. Hence the name Chorunnu.

What's the significance of Chorunnu?

Actually, it's a change of phase from liquid food to solid food. That means, a baby is grown to adopt the life style of an adult. As kids are most important and parents notice even the minute change of the baby from cooing to walking, it's sure, they will celebrate this occassion, inviting
everyone near.

How is it conducted?

It's believed that kids are incarnation of God and since they have a special 'Chaithanya', new born babies are never taken to temples in Kerala. After six months, when they are adopting human changes they are given normal food, which marks the beginning of a new phase of their life. So, kids are taken to temples only after completing six months and that also, for Chorunnu function. Close relatives will also be present. Earlier, when traditional joint families existed, kid's uncle gave the first grain to the kid. It was conducted in family also. Now everyone prefers a temple nearby.
Guruvayur Sri Krishna temple is very famous for this function. It's conducted in mornings only.

After pooja, kid is taken to the front of the deity. Kid wears a cream colour Kerala dhoti, same is his father. At first, father of the baby sits down placing him/her in his lap. A vegetarian meal, after pooja will be served by the main priest of the temple in a traditional plantain leaf. It contain different curries along with salt, red chillies and rice. Father serves him rice by adding both salt and chillies and obviously, the kid will cry. It's believed that the kid should cry, marking the beginning of a human life full of struggles and experiences. Also, seeing the big crowd he may fear a little more. It takes a lot of time for the parents to comfort him.

Thulabharam of fruits or ghee or anything of your wish

As soon as a baby is given his first rice food, thulabharam is conducted. It's just an offering to the temple. Flowers, banana, ghee, sugar, rice, fruits or anything of devotee's wish can be given as thulabharam. Thulabharam is an offering to temples for the fulfillment of one's wishes and it can be done for both children and adults. Amount equal to the weight of the person is given as offerings. Obviously, adults require large amount equivalent to his mass comparing kids. Kid is seated or placed on one pan of the weighing balance and offerings in the other pan. Add the offerings till the weight equals. The offerings are normally used by temples or later auctioned.

After Chorunnu he is taken home

Now rituals are over and family will return back. Kids will be given normal rice food after that along with salt and chilli added side dishes. At first, lower quantity of solid food is given and gradually, it's increased. Yes, slowly he is adopting himself to the life style of normal man.

Story behind my profile picture

It's none other than my daughter and that photo was taken during her Chorunnu ceremony when she just completed six months old. Every member here likes that picture a lot and that's the reason why I decided to write it as an article. As I promised, we conducted Chorunnu ceremony of my daughter in the near by Siva temple. We took her early morning along with a few relatives and she was visiting a temple for the first time. Her grand parents were also present. Just before the ceremony, her dress was changed and she wore a small Kerala dhoti with silk border. Since morning pooja had just ended,  there was a small crowd. They also gathered around to see the ceremony. First her father sat on the floor, before Lord Siva, carrying her in his lap. Main priest of the temple is called poojari, potti or swamy in Malayalam. Potti served her rice in a banana leaf along with salt and chillies. He gave her a ' chandan teeka' on her forehead and asked her father to give her food. As instructed, my husband gave her a ball of rice, adding salt and chillies. As soon as she had it, she began to cry. The ceremony ended. Then, it was our job to comfort her.

Next ritual was 'thulabharam' and it was my father's wish to do her thulabharam with an expensive and rare type banana. She has not begun to sit that time, as she was just 6 months old. So, my husband hold her in one pan by giving her a small support. Though one bunch of banana was sufficient enough to equalize her weight, my father asked to put the other one too, as it was his wish to give them both to the temple. Now also, she cried. Also, seeing the crowd she was frightened a little. After the ceremony was completed we returned home and had a small vegetarian meal.

Aryans- An important part of Indian History! They came to India and changed the direction of Indian History. Before the arrival of Aryans, Dravidians resided in India. It's believed that Dravidians were the original natives of India spreading all over the country and Aryans defeated Dravidians and pushed them towards mountains and southern regions of the country, thus dominating everywhere. Aryans called Dravidians, 'Dasru' which means 'slaves' in their language. Now also there is no clear evidence, from where Aryans have come from and it is still a topic of hot argument. Some historians believe that they may have come from regions belonging to Hungary, Australia, Bohemia, Germany, France or around that region. They are claiming so, pointing out factors that those regions were abundant in milk, wheat and meat. Some Historians believe that they came to India through northern mountains somewhere from Iran or South Russia around 1500 BC. Balagangadhar Tilak had once told that they belong to Northern polar regions. More preferences are given to the claims of Middle Asia as their original place. It was famous German scientist Marx Muller who put forward this claim first. Surprisingly, one more claim known as 'Aryan Invasion is a Myth' is also gaining popularity nowadays, which states that there was no Aryan invasion, this is quite contradictory to all the above views. Yet, it's believed that Aryan culture gradually flourished in India between 2000 BC and 600 BC.

Chaturvarnam - the origin of caste system in India

It's believed that, it were Aryans who first divided people into different classes according to their work profile. Earlier, Aryans didn't have a proper style of living. They were just nomads who wandered around, feeding their cattle and eating fruits from trees around. When they reached India, they had to face Dravidians who were doing agriculture and living at permanent residences. Very soon, they mingled with agricultural culture of India. They considered farming as a creativity means and they began to worship God and natural forces before dispersing seeds or reaping. At that time, poojas, yaga, vrita etc were common among Aryans to please God. To protect people from both natural calamities and animals, needs arose for permanent poojas which resulted in the origin of Brahmins. They were assigned to do poojas and were given high honour in the society. Thus they formed the top group. Their economy was completely based on agriculture and cattle. So, to protect both and to remain vigilant against enemies, Kshatriyas were formed. They were the warriors who fought for the people. They had good physical qualities and a healthy body comparing to all other groups. For farming and selling of goods, Vaishyas were created. Then, a need arose for slaves for serving the above three classes. Thus Shoodras formed the lowest class and their duty was to serve all the above classes. Classification of people according to their job is known as Chaturvanam. Chatur means four and varnam means caste/colour.

Women enjoyed high positions

During Rig veda days, women decorated high positions in families and society. For religious rituals, ladies participated along with men. They were given good education and were given freedom to select their life partner. There are clear evidences in Vedas and Upanishads about educated women pandits. Ladies - Maitroyi, Gargi and Lopamudra were treated as intelligent women who gave final decisions in disputes as well.

Their life style

India is also known as Aryavartham. But, it was never under a single King or Emperor at any time in the ancient periods. Instead they formed different gotras and tribes. In Rig Veda, it's told about Aryans who both, fought each other and stood united against a common enemy. Each gotra had a King
and their own political rules and regulations. Family formed the first layer. Several families combined together to form a village and villages combined to form a 'Visam'. Later, different visams combine together to form 'Jan' and many 'Jans' together form a country. If a dispute occurs in a village, it's solved by village representatives itself. i.e. Each structure was headed by a group of representatives selected from the corresponding group. If a king is to take a decision, he used to discuss with 'Jan' representatives. Main duties of a king include collection of tax, solving disputes and protect his countrymen from enemies. Both priests and gurus had an important position in the ruling of the country. Kings used to seek their opinion before taking decisions. It's clearly evident in Vedas that kingdoms of ancient time did have Raj Gurus.

Vedas and Upanishads

The culture and life style of Aryans are known through Vedas, Upanishads, Brahmanas and Sookthas. Aryan literature is classified into these four groups. The four vedas - Rig, Yajur, Sama and Atharva are considered as world's oldest literal works. The primitive cultural life of Aryas are known
through the vedas. It's believed that the centre of primitive Aryan culture belongs to the banks of Yamuna and Satlej rivers. It deeply stresses the existence of Aryas in the banks of the five rivers of Punjab.

The people were interested in farming

The main occupations of Aryans were agriculture and cattle farming. Wheat was cultivated the most. They kept cow, ox, goat, horse and dogs. They dig wells and ponds for irrigation purposes and used horses and oxes for ploughing land for cultivation. They were brilliant in embroidery, vasthu, sculptures and sewing. Since cows were seen as the symbol of wealth, stealing them was a common offense at that time which even resulted in many clashes. Giving fire to hay storage was a common method to fight against such opponents. They used clothes made of wool and cotton and their hobbies were dance, chess, chariot riding and horse races. Aryans were music admirers and used veena and flute at that time.

Religions and beliefs

Aryans, who were frightened seeing nature's wonders like sun rise, rain, flood etc began to worship them as God. They worshipped sun, earth, thunder, lightning, sky, fire etc in a symbolic way treating them as Gods. Indra, Rudra, Vayu, Varuna, Ushus, Aswini Devas are some among them. Their religion strictly followed rituals and customs. Chanting mantras, religious rituals, yagas, yajnjas, homas are some of them and they form an invisible bond with Aryan culture. To please devas, they did yajnjas and yagas which are clearly told in Vedas. After Rig Veda, a dramatical change was seen in their rituals and customs. Their rituals became more complex than before adding many new things. Animal sacrifices became common everywhere. Sanyasa began to attain more importance, where people abandon everything to live a life away from their family and desires. People's living style changed and again it was divided into four stages - Brahmacharyam(Unmarried life), Garhasthvam(family life), Vanaprastham(forest life) and Sanyasam(leaving everything). At that time, people began to follow all these four stages. In addition to nature gods, Rama, Krishna, Vishnu, Siva etc were begun to be worshipped as deities.

Ramayana and Mahabharatha

Both these epics were written in the last stages of Vedic period. The changes in Aryans' vision, customs, culture and life style are well visible in these two epics. Kauravas and Pandavas of Mahabharata represents different dynasties of Aryas itself. It's believed that during Kurukshetra battle, all kings of ancient Bharat also participated in one of the two groups. About Ramayana, Rama is the representative of Aryas while Ravana represents Dravidian culture. It can also be claimed that the win of Aryas over Dravidians is symbolically represented in Ramayana. Whole through the epic, it's clearly told Ravana resides in southern region, Srilanka. In Hindu mythology, many stories are told about battles between Aryans and devils. Aryans are white skinned while Dravidians, a little brownish or dark. So, it's also said that battles fought in Hindu mythological stories were the wars between Aryans and Dravidians, whom Aryans coined as slaves, devils, monsters etc. 

Though it's believed that Aryan invasion is around 1500 BC, according to astronomical researches, many incidents of Mahabharata occurred before 7000 years. It's true, we are just following the culture and customs started by Aryans 3500 years back. Though, many changes have occurred and many rituals have come to an end, we are still its followers. No doubt! 

If someone asks a Keralite, which is the most significant month according to your Malayalam calendar, without hesitation he would reply, "It's Karkidakam". Karkidakam is the last month of Malayalam calendar and it falls on July 16th every year according to Gregorian calender. A non-Keralite may think, "Why this month is so significant even if it marks the end of the year and next month is the prosperous Chingam". Its answer is related to monsoon, climate variations and its associated diseases. During June-July months, monsoon is in full swing in Kerala. So, great chances of getting diseases. Also, since the next month is the new year, people want to leave behind every bad thing to welcome Chingam with a happy soul and healthy mind. Since it's told, a happy soul dwells in a healthy body, people are taking this month to treat them both using traditional methods. Karkidakam can be called as the month of rejuvenation of mind and body particularly Ayurvedic treatments like massaging known as uzhichil, medicines and Karkidaka Kanji- a medicinal food served this month. Malayalam calender is also known as 'Kollavarsham' started around 825AD and it gives somewhat equal importance to both Karkidakam and Chingam. Truth is that a month preparation is done so that Onam can be welcomed with all its greatness and importance. Though it's not followed nowadays, women used to wear 'Dasapushpam' on their hair. It's spiritual as well as physical healing properties. Dasapushpam means 10 flowers and they are Karuva, Poovan Kurunnu, Thiruthali, Krishnakanthi, Nilapana, Cherula, Kayyunni, Uzhinja, Mukkutti and Muyal Cheviyan. No functions are performed this month Whether it's marriage, house warming ceremony, shifting or even marriage fixing, good ceremonies are not conducted this month as it's not considered as a bad month for every good deal. Land registration and vehicle purchases are also very rare. So, as total, business deals are only a few. Everything will be postponed to next month Chingam which starts on August 17. Let me explain some other specialties of this month one by one. Most are somewhat related to Hindu religion and spirituality.

Ramayana reading in every Hindu home

Karkidaka month is also known as Ramayana month. Let me tell you the reason why it's called so. Through forum discussion, something surprised me most. I think, whole over India, this month is given great significance only in Kerala. This month is famous for dark clouds and heavy rains, and it's believed that people read Ramayana to build self confidence when the most difficult days are passing by.Ramayana written by Thunchaththu Ramanujan Ezhuthachan in Malayalam known as Athyadhma Ramayanan is read in every Hindu home in the evenings. It's also recited in all temples of Kerala, both mornings and evenings for one month every day. Thunchaththu Ramanujan  Ezhuthachan, simply known as Ezhuthachan is considered as the father of Malayalam language and literature. Both the great epics were translated to Malayalam for the first time by Ezhuthachan. Due to superstitious beliefs, both were not directly translated. Instead they were written as 'Kilippaattu' (song of a bird),giving rise to a new branch of literature. Since Karkidakam is considered as the dark month, people give much importance to reading Ramayana, in front of deepam (light) filling mind with devotional thoughts. Since it's not possible to read the whole book a month, the fifth kantam - Sundara Kandam is most preferred for reading. Since Sundarakantham is giving more preference to Hanuman than Rama, Hanuman has become an important part of this Ramayana month. Also, reading Ramayana is a great and simple way to attain Moksha, according to Hindu mythology. Usually, youth belonging to different Hindu samajams form a group and they go to each and every Hindu home of their region to recite Ramayana. That shows its importance even among members of young generation. Ramayana reading in every temple of Kerala is a spectacular scene to watch. 

Karkidaka Kanji(Marinnu Kanji)

It's a medicinal rice food served this month to resist all diseases as it's a bad climate everywhere. It can be served by anyone, but only this month and should be served everyday. It's prepared using Navarra rice, jaggery, shallots, milk, coconut milk, broken wheat, cumin seeds and salt. A few varieties of herbs like Ayamodakam, Kurunthotti, Uzhinjal etc and a few spices like pepper, cardamom, cloves etc are also added. Though it tastes bitter, many people prefer to have this dish during this season. Now readymade sachets are also available everywhere. Leafy vegetables like moringa leaves and spinach are not used this month, as it's believed they contain some poisonous substance in their leaves during this month due to the change of seasons and it's proved scientifically also.

Karkidaka Vavu - the homage to ancestors

It's a special offering given to ancestors of the family. They are known as 'pitrukkal' and it's the homage and remembrance paid to died members of the family once in an year. It's believed that in amavasi day of Karkidakam month, they get full strength and in order to please them, members of the family give them 'bali' and it's known as balitharpanam. Amavasi means no moon. It's also believed that those departed souls attain moksha through these rituals. This ritualistic homage is normally paid by the elder males of the family, but often done by women and kids also. Normally, it's done in temples. Rice, flowers etc are offered in a banana leaf and after the pooja it's taken to the nearby sea or river. Thirunavaya, Aluva Siva temple, Thiruvallam Parasurama temple, Varkala Papanasam, Shankhumukham etc are most famous for this annual homage. After that, a grand feast is prepared at home remembering them. In many towns, this annual day is celebrated conducting fairs and exhibitions.

A month of reduction sales

It's most popular in Tamil Nadu known as 'Aadi kizhiv' means Aadi month discount. Karkidakam is known as Aadi in Tamil language. All old items of shops will be sold off in discount so that, they can accumulate fresh items for the next month. It's most commonly adopted in some textile showrooms where complete cloth materials will be sold off, even more than 50% discount. So, many people do prefer to do their Onam shopping this month itself. It can save both, money and a lot of time. Onam season is always busy. So, early purchases can save a lot of time too.

Visiting the four brothers of Ramayana - Naalambala Darshanam

It's one of the widely followed practices nowadays, gaining more popularity. In addition to reading Ramayana everyday, if one person is able to visit the temples in a day, in the order Rama, Bharatha, Lekshmana and Shatrughnana, it's considered as good. Also, it's believed that his wishes will come true. After visiting Shatrighnana, he has to return to Rama to tell him, to complete a full circle, which many people don't follow nowadays. Pilgrims should start in the early morning and should complete it before noon, without any break. Naalambalams of Thrissur district are Srirama temple Thriprayar, Koodalmanikyam Bharatha temple of Triprayar, Moozhikkulam Lakshmana Temple and Payammal Shatrughan temple. It's believed that Lord Krishna worshipped these four brothers and at the end of Dwaparaka yuga, when Krishna completed his ninth incarnation on earth, Dwaraka was buried under the sea. The four idols floated in sea water reached Chethuvara coastal region of Kerala. Vakkayil Kaimal who was the minister of Ayirur Kovalakam of Ponnani had a strange dream and he instructed fishermen to get those four idols from the Chethuvara sea. According to the instructions he got through the dream, he installed the four idols in four temples of Thrissur district, which later became big pilgrim places to visit in the month of Karkidakam. The shortest distant Naalambalams are located in Kottayam district within just one or two kilometer radius and surprisingly, all temples are in one place,Ramapuram. The temples are Ramapuram Shri Ramaswamy temple,Koodappulam Shri Lekshmanaswamy temple, Amanakkara Shri Bharathaswamy temple and Methiri Shri Shatrughnanswamy temple. Nowadays, such tours named as 'Nalambala Yatra' are organized by different temples itself. 

Sukhachikitsa for elephants

Elephants form an important part of Kerala's traditional culture. No one can even imagine a Kerala festival without elephants. Not only men, rejuvenation treatments are given to elephants also. They will be given special massaging, food and Ayurveda medicines. It's commonly conducted in temples, as elephants form a indispensable part of temple festivals known as 'Pooram'. Special bathing and massaging is done to perfectly tone their body for the next one year. Also, this one month is total rest for elephants. In Guruvayoor Srikrishna temple, more than 60 elephants are given special diets, herbal tonics and they are treated in a royal way. Guruvayur Kesavan is considered as the most magnificent elephant of Kerala till now. Special 'Gajapooja' (elephant pooja) is conducted as a homage to him before 'Aanayoott' - the feeding of elephants is started. It is a great event of curiosity among the viewers to see special treatments of elephants and tourists are also attracted.

Prosperous illamnira and puthiri

It's the month of auspicious illam nira where farmers give reaped paddy to temples for Lekshmi pooja. Since Onam is known as harvest festival, illam nira marks its beginning. Paddy sheaves are brought in bundle to temples by farmers, carrying on their head. They took pradikshanams of the temple. Pradikshanam means they completely revolve the temple. Later, it's taken inside temple and Melshanti (the main priest) after pooja, dedicate it to Lord. Then it's distributed among the farmers and people who visit the temple the particular day. Devotees get one paddy each and it's believed that, if they keep it safe in their homes, it brings wealth, happiness and prosperity to the family. Each year, they collect and tie it in the ceilings of their homes. Gradually, it turns a bundle as years pass by. Puthiri means new rice harvested from the fields and hence the name. Also, rice is stored for the next one year in granaries known as 'Pathaayam'. Illam means Brahmin's home. Earlier, only high caste people own lands and paddy fields and hence the name.

It's time for annual cleaning

Whole Hindu houses will be cleaned and waste things thrown out just before the commence of Onam. It's believed that Goddess Lekshmi won't enter home in the prosperous new year if it's not kept neat. It's true or false, but people are cleaning homes and surroundings when Karkidakam reaches its last phase.

Hoping you got a lovely experience to know some traditional customs followed during the last month of Kollavarsham. It's really nice to rest and have treatment, controlling all diets to get energy for the next year to work continuously. Also, bhakthi paths give peace to mind and strengthens our heart. So, let me also recite the famous Rama shloka before completing this article.

"Sree rama rama, sree ramachandra jaya
Sree rama rama, sree ramabhadra jaya
Sree rama rama rama Lokabhirama jaya
Sree rama rama rama Ravananthaka jaya
Sree rama rama Hridi ramatham rama rama"

Festivas means cheers, happiness and get-togethers. As a Keralite, an excitement fills my mind at commence of Chingam month - the first month of Malayalam calendar. Celebrations are every where in the form of pookkalams, purchases, boat races, weddings and gatherings. In Kerala, more than 50% marriages take place in the month of Chingam. It's spring season. So, nature also blesses people in its own way by showering flowers and greenery everywhere. Monsoon season has just come to an end filling all backwaters and lakes. Since Onam is a harvest festival, it's a great season of agricultural products too. Why not? On the 10th day of celebrations, we prepare a grand feast to welcome our beloved Emperor Maveli who visits his subjects once in every year, on the Thiruvonam day. Onam celebrations start by preparing flower decorations, Pookkalam (Attam) on the Attam star and it does not end with the tenth star Thiruvonam, the day on which Onam is celebrated. It's extended to two more days. Second Onam is Thiruvonam. But we Keralites, celebrate third Onam Avittom and fourth Onam Chathayam and hence this harvest festival can be called a celebration of 12 days.

My journey starts from cultural capital of Kerala

Our Onam preparations start in the dark month of Karkadakam itself and I was eagerly waiting for this occasion so that I could meet my family and celebrate our state festival together. After all, Onam is a festival of get-togethers too, where old parents eagerly wait for the arrival of their kids and grand kids even if they are far away in any other part of the world. Also, they collect many traditional items for them. It may even include mangoes or jack fruits from their courtyard which their kids won't get if they are far from their home town. My home town is the capital city and as, I reside now in the cultural capital, it always takes 7-8 hours and a lot of preparation for my journey. I really enjoy this journey very much, since this celebration is always accompanied by small rain showers and spring season and all people around are in a jolly mood. Train journeys are also amazing since, while the train passes through lonely paths, we can see greenery everywhere and water filled streams, particularly if train passes through Alappuzha route - the land of boat races.

Due to high work pressure, my hubby couldn't take even a single day leave. So, we were able to leave the cultural capital Thrissur, just one day before the auspicious day. This year, surprisingly two stars, pooradam and utradam fall on the same day and hence only 9 days left  to make the floral decoration for Maveli. Kids really love 'Attam'. When I was a kid, I along with my cousins used to go to neighbours' homes in groups, to collect flowers and we together made Attam for 10 days, according to our creativity and imaginations. There was so much excitement among us and we used to enjoy each and every moment, playing with different types and colours of flowers. But now, time has moved very much forward and seasons are changing rapidly fast. Now it's the time of even instant sadyas and nothing given to new generations. Yet, I decided to make a simple attam for my 5 year kid seeing her excitement and interest. It was not a great one. Yet attam made with marigold, bachelor's button and thulsi leaves was cheering very fine in our courtyard.

In the evening we made a small purchase for our parents and kids and while shopping, we could see the whole Thrissur town in enjoyment. Celebrations had already begun and I was really surprised seeing the flower market of Vadakkumnatha Temple maidan. Onam celebrations and attam making competitions everywhere, particularly in clubs, schools and colleges. Also, it's the marriage season. That's the reason for high demand of flowers, especially marigold, jasmine, bachelor's button, chrysanthemum and nerium. The whole town was in traffic block. Yet, we three managed to get our night train. When the dawn of first Onam was born, we reached Thampanoor railway station and within one hour we reached home. First Onam is famous for its Onam purchases and it's known as Uthradapaachil as people make their last list of Onam purchases this day.

After I reached the capital city

According to customs, of four Onams, one is celebrated at wife's home along with her parents. So, this first Onam, we celebrated with my parents. When I reached the main junction of my village, I could hear a loud speaker playing songs and a lot of boys gathered around a closed tent. It was for the first time and I felt so happy. What they were doing, I will tell later when I describe Thiruvonam day because that closed tent is a suspense till next day dawn. As soon as we reached home, we gave my parents, 'Onakodi'. Kodi means new dress. We had our special lunch together. My brother and family were also present. That's why I told, it's something like a get-together and in the evening, we decided to go to the city to see Onam celebrations.

How the city looked in Uthradapaachil night

If someone wants to see real Onam celebrations, he should visit the capital city. As all the ministers and MLAs reside in the capital city, they give much importance to Onam celebrations. Almost all buildings of main roads, particularly MG road, including Secretariat, Kerala Legislative Assembly and Corporation building are completely decorated with multi-colour serial lights and of course, no doubt, the city appears like a bride at night, decorated with ornaments and diamonds. It lasts till the last day of Onam celebrations, almost 10-15 days.

But the main attraction is Kanakakunnu Palace and associated Museum, which were once held by great Maharajas of Travancore known as 'Thiruvithankoor Maharajav' in Malayalam. Now, those buildings under the direct governance of Government, is a vast display of cultural heritage of Kerala. Around the year, events are organized to promote Kerala tourism. Yet Onam celebrations at Kanakakunnu is so special. These two buildings, along with a zoo hold acres of land and lovely gardens filled with trees of many rare varieties, some of them planted even a century back. Also, grass land of Kanakakunnu palace appears like a green blanket attracting a lot of tourists everyday. No doubt, it's the most peaceful and pollution free place of the capital city and its doors are open the whole day till midnight every day. During Onam celebrations, each and every tree will be decorated by serial lights and there will be different stage shows arranged in different parts of the garden and entry is absolutely free.

Each year, variety programs will be conducted in Chandrasekhar Stadium and Kanakakunnu palace and many other parts of the city. This include many dance programs and live stage shows of many artists related to film and non-film field. Great importance is given to Kerala art forms like Kathakali, Thiruvathirakali, Mohiniattam etc as this occasion is used to promote tourism a lot. I read from newspaper somewhere that live concerts are arranged in 18 stages in capital city itself. So, it's nothing less than a grand season. But I was most impatient to see Kanakakunnu Palace. I just imagined how it looks like this time - will it be as usual or something different. When I stepped inside the palace garden, I was so excited to see something most related to Onam, for the first time - something that we miss a lot nowadays. Let it be another suspense to tell you later. First let me tell you my journey till we reached the palace.

When we stepped into the city , we saw dark clouds everywhere. This Onam, a little bit change in season's timing - we were having heavy rains that week. So, we doubted if our whole plan will be soaked in rain. Yet, we traveled through the city making small purchases. This time, neither East fort nor Gandhi Park was decorated much. May be due to security reasons, I think so, as Sree Padmanabha swamy temple is just a few steps away. Yet, we could see many buildings bathed in lights, particularly jewellery shops. But what surprised me most is, around 7.30 pm, East fort was not so crowdy as expected. I think, most people were at different stalls of Puthirikandam maidan, giving finishing touch to Uthradapaachil.

We enjoyed the beauty of city and drove through MG road leading to PMG Junction and the Palace. Though we could see roads busy with vehicles, we could travel without many traffic blocks. When our car passed Secretariat, we were really enjoying its beauty and took some nice snaps too. It's one of the most beautifully decorated buildings of Onam season. All its trees and lovely gardens were bearing beautiful 'light' fruits of different colours.Then we passed MLA Quarters, Kerala University, Chandrasekhar Stadium and Legislative Assembly. Surprisingly, Legislative Assembly was only partially decorated. Yet it looked nice in impressive colours and flash lights super imposed on trees. Very soon we reached PMG Junction and couldn't find any space for parking. We again traveled more than half an hour, moiving around the whole palace and Museum to get a parking space for our car, as no vehicle was allowed in the roads leading to palace. At this time, car with number 1 passed by in super fast speed and we got a quick glance of our honourable Chief minister while our car was waiting at a traffic signal. We could see big screens at each and every major junctions, showing live telecast of programs in Chandrasekhar stadium and palace auditorium.

When we found a parking space, it was already 9 pm and we didn't waste more time wandering here and there. Just opposite the palace and Museum are Corporation office (Thiruvananthapuram Nagara Sabha) and Kerala Water Authority main office. Beautifully decorated both buildings and the associated Nehru Park for children were really worth to watch. Finally, we reached the entry point of palace. There was a big mela also, for kids - giant wheel, magic, well-of-death etc on one side of the palace. After spending a little time there, we reached the real Onam fest. Now let me break the suspense! For the first time, as a part of Onam celebrations, I saw hundreds of swings tied in each and every branch of garden trees. It really brought many childhood memories back, something which our kids miss a lot these days!

Real stars were swings of low branches

Instead of putting lights on each and every branches of garden trees as usual, this time, they tied swings wherever they could, using ropes and woods. Some trees, which had 3-4 lower branches tied with many swings. What a fantastic scene it was! Beyond every explanation! In the dim lights, not only kids, but grand parents were also enjoying this amazing journey in the space in their own way. My daughter was very much excited seeing numerous swings tied every where in each and every corner of palace garden. Most surprising, people have to wait a little time to get a free swing. That showed the success of this program and how people enjoyed it. I think, it's for the first time, they got an innovative idea to bring back the pure scent of old Onam days back. In the dim lights, it was really beautiful to see swings tied in each and every branches and we just enjoyed the beauty, by walking over the green grass blanket with ice creams in hand. I am sure, my daughter loved it most, as she was swinging in each and every free swing and was not ready to leave the place. We took some nice snaps and since it was already 10.30 pm, we didn't spend time to watch stage shows or do we enter food stalls to taste something different, but traditional Kerala al dishes. It was so lucky that we had just got into our car before rain started and we traveled the whole city in that lovely rain. Though we reached home late, that journey brought back many childhood memories live, giving a good refreshment.

It's the time for real celebrations

Next day morning, it was Thiruvonam. In northern districts of Kerala, special offerings were done to Onathappan, who is believed to be both Lord Vishnu and Emperor Mahabali in different places. Southern Kerala is not having such practices of making four faced Onathappan from mud or clay and worshipped in early morning of Thiruvonam, just before preparation of dishes. For Kerala sadya, we have to prepare a lot of variety dishes and it's really a great moment of happiness when all members of the family, both males and females, work together for making the feast. When we prepare something with great effort, it tastes best too. That's why, even in the era of instant Kerala sadyas, we people are opting for such traditional methods to prepare more than 15 items for our lunch meal. Also, according to our beliefs, Maveli Thampuran will be happy if we prepare meal with our own hands, in our homes which brings a feeling of togetherness too. While works were going on in the kitchen, kids of home were preparing attam in the courtyard. My husband assisted them giving valuable suggestions.

It's a pure vegetarian meal and this time, we had a few guests too. It's really a great moment, when all members of the family gather together and have their feast together. I still remember one or two Onams of my childhood days, when we used to put mat on the floor and have sadya, particularly when more than 10-15 members present. According to beliefs we should sit on the floor and serve food on banana leaf, which is nowhere seen nowadays. Only memories left. Also, in early days, people were not rich and even in their poverty, they used to celebrate a day an year with everything they can, and that day was Onam. Though that significance of celebrating Onam in poverty doesn't exist now, people have not forgotten completely, the importance of this festival, that's very very important.

Now, let me tell you how a sadya is served. It also follows a strict rule in southern parts of Kerala. In each district, the serving rule differs slightly and let me tell you how sadya is served in Thiruvananthapuram style. First put banana leaf with its pointed edge in the left hand side of the person, to whom the food is served. Only tip portion of the leaf is taken and it's known as 'thumbila' in Malayalam. Then side dishes are served in an order. We can put curd chillies and salt, but it's just optional. Then banana chips and upperi(made of banana and jaggery) is served in the left tip of banana leaf. Then 3 pickles in the order- ginger, lemon and mango. Mango pickle will be added with curd. So, next 2-3 items should be curd added side dishes. This rule is strictly followed in every Kerala sadya, from pickles to curd and finally to non-curd items. Kichadi, pachadi and raita are normal curd items. Then thoran, avial and koottu curry are served in the order one after one. The number of side dishes should compulsory be an odd number. Most sadyas contain 7, 9, 11 or more side dishes. This time, we prepared 9 side dishes. Then banana and pappad are placed on the left side of the banana leaf. Banana may be any one of the varieties, palayankodan, raskadali or matti. Other banana items are not used. Also, number of bananas depend on the number of jaggery payasams served. Then boiled rice along with daal curry (parippu) is served. Normally, the grey chamba rice, which contains the husk is served for sadyas. Second curry served is sambar. Then payasams are served in the order ada, parippu(daal) and vermicilli. Ada and parippu are jaggery payasams served with banana while vermicilli is a kheer served with boli or boondi. You can increase the number of payasams according to your wish. Then again rice is served 3 times with 3 curries in the order pulissery, rasam and buttermilk. When pulissery is served olan is also served as side dish, the special dish of northern Kerala sadyas. We should complete our meal with buttermilk to neutralize everything we have just eaten. Very often, a fresh lemon is also served, which we should prepare lemon juice later and have it. This time, we made 9 side dishes, 5 curries and 2 payasam. So, it was nothing less than a royal feast.

After the sadya 

Our Onam afternoon is always dedicated to a short walk to cover almost all attams around. It's said, Kovalam belt prepares the best attams of the state, to attract tourists. Even attam competitions of different art clubs are arranged. To make it grand, on the 9th day dawn break itself, they cover the whole shed and prepare attam. It will be opened in the early Thiruvonam morning only. Most of the grand attams need 10-20 people's 24 hours continuous work giving it each and every thing needed to attain the perfection at its best. Only flowers and leaves are used. Beautiful sculptures are made of clay, dried and decorated nicely with flowers. That's why they are taking these amount of time. Most common sculptures include Krishna, Vishnu, Ganapathi, Siva, elephants etc. I saw many grand attams in Kovalam-Vizhinjam-Chowvara belt, of which three of them attracted me most. Each of them were made in more than 2 cent plot, with beautiful designs with some lovely and uniform patterns. In my childhood, I used to make attam in salt mixed with different colours if flowers are not sufficient enough and many times I have seen them washed in rain. It's an instant attam which is not at all advisable. For beautiful attams, we helped them by giving small funds as we know, it requires a lot of money and efforts to keep Maveli in our souls alive. Several games are also arranged like Kaduvakali, Thumpithullal, Vadam vali, Sundarikku pottukuthal, sack race, kalam adi etc. It's the cheer of millions of hearts that keep the story of Maveli and its celebrations till alive without losing its significance much. At last, we reached the junction of my home. Hoping you remember the suspense behind the covered tent. It's for the first time, an Onam celebration and attam decoration announced at my place and it was conducted successfully also, with many games included. It was not a great attam like those seen in the Kovalam belt. Yet, this attam drew maximum viewers. All were new faces. Nursery and primary school boys before my marriage are now grown-up teenagers who have taken initiative to celebrate it for the first time. It was something, I have been missing for all the past Onams, celebration and attam preparation at my bus stop junction. In the evening, we returned home.

It's time to return back

In the capital city, Chief Minister Oommen Chandy inaugurated Onam celebrations on 27th August and it lasted for 1 week completing with the colourful procession from Kowdiar Palace to East fort. It covers almost all major junctions of the city and VIPs will be watching them sitting on special seats arranged on either side of road. I left Thiruvananthapuram just one day before the closing ceremony. I also missed famous Kaduva kali(tiger play) of Thrissur town this time. Yet, hoping, next year I will be able to see at least one of these ceremonies. I have put my maximum efforts to give you an Onam feast. Hoping you enjoyed it!!